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he
third day in the midst of lavas and [? masses] of granite I began my
apparently forlorn hunt. How do you think I succeeded? In an escarpement
of compact greenish sandstone, I found a small wood of petrified trees
in a vertical position, or rather the strata were inclined about 20-30
deg to one point and the trees 70 deg to the opposite one. That is,
they were before the tilt truly vertical. The sandstone consists of
many layers, and is marked by the concentric lines of the bark (I have
specimens); 11 are perfectly silicified and resemble the dicotyledonous
wood which I have found at Chiloe and Concepcion (6/2. "Geol. Obs." page
202. Specimens of the silicified wood were examined by Robert Brown,
and determined by him as coniferous, "partaking of the characters of the
Araucarian tribe, with some curious points of affinity with the yew.");
the others (30-40) I only know to be trees from the analogy of form
and position; they consist of snow-white columns (like Lot's wife) of
coarsely crystalline carb. of lime. The largest shaft is 7 feet. They
are all close together, within 100 yards, and about the same level:
nowhere else could I find any. It cannot be doubted that the layers
of fine sandstone have quietly been deposited between a clump of trees
which were fixed by their roots. The sandstone rests on lava, is covered
by a great bed apparently about 1,000 feet thick of black augitic lava,
and over this there are at least 5 grand alternations of such rocks and
aqueous sedimentary deposits, amounting in thickness to several thousand
feet. I am quite afraid of the only conclusion which I can draw from
this fact, namely that there must have been a depression in the surface
of the land to that amount. But neglecting this consideration, it was a
most satisfactory support of my presumption of the Tertiary (I mean by
Tertiary, that the shells of the period were closely allied, or some
identical, to those which now live, as in the lower beds of Patagonia)
age of this eastern chain. A great part of the proof must remain upon my
ipse dixit of a mineralogical resemblance with those beds whose age
is known, and the character of which resemblance is to be subject
to infinite variation, passing from one variety to another by a
concretionary structure. I hardly expect you to believe me, when it is
a consequence of this view that granite, which forms peaks of a height
probably of 14,000 feet, has been fluid in the Tertiary period; that
strata of that period are altered by its heat, and are traversed by
dykes from the mass. That these strata have also probably undergone an
immense depression, that they are now inclined at high angles and form
regular or complicated anticlinal lines. To complete the climax and seal
your disbelief, these same sedimentary strata and lavas are traversed by
VERY NUMEROUS, true metallic veins of iron, copper, arsenic, silver and
gold, and these can be traced to the underlying granite. A gold mine has
been worked close to the clump of silicified trees. If when you see my
specimens, sections and account, you should think that there is
pretty strong presumptive evidence of the above facts, it appears
very important; for the structure, and size of this chain will bear
comparison with any in the world, and that this all should have been
produced in so very recent a period is indeed wonderful. In my own
mind I am quite convinced of the reality of this. I can anyhow most
conscientiously say that no previously formed conjecture warped my
judgment. As I have described so did I actually observe the facts. But I
will have some mercy and end this most lengthy account of my geological
trip.

On some of the large patches of perpetual snow, I found the famous red
snow of the Arctic countries; I send with this letter my observations
and a piece of paper on which I tried to dry some specimens. If the fact
is new and you think it worth while, either yourself examine them or
send them to whoever has described the specimens from the north and
publish a notice in any of the periodicals. I also send a small bottle
with two lizards, one of them is viviparous as you will see by the
accompanying notice. A M. Gay--a French naturalist--has already
published in one of the newspapers of this country a similar statement
and probably has forwarded to Paris some account; as the fact appears
singular would it not be worth while to hand over the specimens to some
good lizardologist and comparative anatomist to publish an account of
their internal structure? Do what you think fit.

This letter will go with a cargo of specimens from Coquimbo. I shall
write to let you know when they are sent off. In the box there are two
bags of seeds, one [from the] valleys of the Cordilleras 5,000-10,000
feet high, the soil and climate exceedingly dry, soil very light and
stony, extremes in temperature; the other chiefly from the dry sandy
Traversia of Mendoza 3,000 feet more or less. If some of the bushes
should grow but not be healthy, try a slight sprinkling of salt and
saltpetre. The plain is saliferous. All the flowers in the Cordilleras
appear to be autumnal flowerers--they were all in blow and seed, many of
them very pretty. I gathered them as I rode along on the hill sides.
If they will but choose to come up, I have no doubt many would be great
rarities. In the Mendoza bag there are the seeds or berries of what
appears to be a small potato plant with a whitish flower. They grow
many leagues from where any habitation could ever have existed owing to
absence of water. Amongst the Chonos dried plants, you will see a fine
specimen of the wild potato, growing under a most opposite climate, and
unquestionably a true wild potato. It must be a distinct species from
that of the Lower Cordilleras one. Perhaps as with the banana, distinct
species are now not to be distinguished in their varieties produced by
cultivation. I cannot copy out the few remarks about the Chonos potato.
With the specimens there is a bundle of old papers and notebooks. Will
you take care of them; in case I should lose my notes, these might be
useful. I do not send home any insects because they must be troublesome
to you, and now so little more of the voyage remains unfinished I can
well take charge of them. In two or three days I set out for Coquimbo by
land; the "Beagle" calls for me in the beginning of June. So that I
have six weeks more to enjoy geologising over these curious mountains
of Chili. There is at present a bloody revolution in Peru. The Commodore
has gone there, and in the hurry has carried our letters with him;
perhaps amongst them there will be one from you. I wish I had the old
Commodore here, I would shake some consideration for others into his old
body. From Coquimbo you will again hear from me.

LETTER 7. TO J.S. HENSLOW. Lima, July 12th, 1835.

This is the last letter which I shall ever write to you from the shores
of America, and for this reason I send it. In a few days time the
"Beagle" will sail for the Galapagos

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